| To remove the doors,
first pop the cover off the window crank. Use a small
screwdriver to gently separate the cover, and remove the
hex screw. | |
| Next remove the two
screws under the door latch, and pull the whole assembly
off. It's held on by 4 spring clips. | |
| Remove the screw under
the door latch assembly, and the gold one at the lower
corner of the door. Now lift the whole panel up a few
inches and pull it off. You now see the cheap Ford door
insulation. | |
| First remove the speaker
and any wiring in the way. The wires are for my
aftermarket door lock actuators. | |
| Now gently pull off the
door insulation. It's only glued at the edges. Notice all
the holes under the insulation. These are terrible for
speaker acoustics. | |
| The Ford insulation will
make a great template. Just put it over your sound
deadening material, and trace with a small screwdriver.
| |
| Now cut with industrial
scissors or a shark knife. Leave the slots for the door
panel 2 inches longer, so the door panel will slide
correctly into the door.
| |
| Now stick the sound
deadening to the door. Make sure to press it firmly, so it
can "couple" with the door skin. You can use your hands or
a small roller. | |
| Next add extra material
to spots that are hard to fit. Also install the speaker
baffle. This really helps the speaker work better. | |
| I removed the baffle, so
I could reinstall the Ford insulation panel. This also
provides a water barrier, so I decided to reinstall it.
| |
| Next install the speaker
baffle, and speaker. Now just reassemble the door using
the disassemble procedure. Remember to test the speakers
before putting the doors back together. | |
| If you have extra
material, also do the rear speakers. I will install
baffles back here soon. | |
